The atlas / Vol. VReading

Belgium

1 city in this edition · 10 bites stamped nationwide

Plate V · Belgium at the table

The cities

1 chapter

Brussels10 bitesCh. 01 · Moules-frites · Belgian fritesStart here

Belgium food starts with city-specific dishes: Brussels for Moules-frites and Belgian frites.

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The rankings

8 lists

Best Moules-fritesIn pressMoules-frites is the undisputed national dish of Belgium and the primary reason travelers seek out a Brussels brasserie or estaminet. Fresh mussels are typically steamed in a pot with white wine, celery, leeks, and butter or a variety of other stocks. They are served with a side of thick, twice-fried Belgian frites that are perfect for dipping in the savory broth. The true local experience is found between September and April, when the mussels are at their seasonal peak. Visitors should avoid the aggressive touts and inflated prices of the tourist-heavy Rue des Bouchers for the best quality.Best Belgian fritesIn pressBelgian frites are not French fries as they are thick-cut from fresh potatoes and twice-fried. Traditionally fried in beef fat, they achieve a soft interior and a deep golden crunchy exterior. In Brussels, the culture centers on the frietkot or small stands located in public squares. Order a cornet or paper cone with Andalouse or Samouraï sauce for the full experience. Specifying sauce on the side is common if you do not want them smothered.Best Carbonnade flamandeIn pressCarbonnade flamande is a rich dark beef stew that is braised in beer rather than wine. The result is a deeply savory, slightly sweet, and tangy gravy served with frites. Order it with handmade frites for the best result at any traditional establishment. Visitors should avoid ordering it at generic tourist cafes where the stew is often watery. A true carbonnade should be thick and jammy with beef that falls apart.Best WaterzooiIn pressWaterzooi is a traditional Flemish cream-based stew that originated in Ghent but is a staple of Brussels brasseries. Originally made with fresh fish from the North Sea, it is now equally common as a chicken version. The meat or fish is simmered with leeks, onions, and carrots in a delicate broth thickened with cream. Order it as waterzooi de poulet for chicken or de poisson for fish. A true waterzooi should be rich, silky, and elegantly seasoned.Best StoempIn pressStoemp is the ultimate Belgian comfort food consisting of a hearty mash of potatoes mixed with vegetables. Usually leeks, carrots, onions, or cabbage are used and enriched with cream or butter. It is typically served as a substantial side dish for sausages or bacon. Order it as stoemp-saucisse for the classic combination with local sausages. A real stoemp should be chunky and colorful rather than a smooth puree.Best Belgian wafflesIn pressBelgian waffles are not one dish but two distinct regional specialties available in Brussels. The Brussels waffle is rectangular and light with deep pockets and usually dusted with sugar. The Liège waffle is oval and dense featuring chunks of pearl sugar that caramelize. Order a Gaufre de Bruxelles for lightness or a Gaufre de Liège for a sweet crunch. Visitors should avoid stands smothered in toppings which ruin the texture of the dough.Best SpeculoosIn pressSpeculoos is a traditional Belgian spiced shortcrust biscuit originally baked for Saint Nicholas. The biscuits are thin crunchy and flavored with a distinct blend of cinnamon. In Brussels they are an essential accompaniment to a cup of coffee. Order handcrafted speculoos for the true artisanal taste of the city. Visitors should look for real butter and spices rather than artificial flavorings.Best Lambic & GueuzeIn pressLambic is a unique type of beer produced by spontaneous fermentation using wild yeasts. Unlike most beers, it is tart, funky, and often bone-dry in flavor profile. Gueuze is a blend of young and old lambics that referments in the bottle. Order a Gueuze à l'ancienne for the most authentic and challenging taste experience. Visitors should avoid sweetened fruit lambics that use syrups rather than real fruit.