The atlas / Vol. LIIReading

Turkey

2 cities in this edition · 20 bites stamped nationwide

Plate LII · Turkey at the table

The cities

2 chapters
Antalya13 bitesCh. 01 · Piyaz · Şiş Kebap / Adana KebapStart hereIstanbul7 bitesCh. 02 · Kebabs · Lahmacun & PideOpen

Turkey food starts with city-specific dishes: Antalya for Piyaz and Şiş Kebap / Adana Kebap; Istanbul for Kebabs and Lahmacun & Pide.

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The rankings

8 lists
Best PiyazIn pressPiyaz in Antalya is a thick and creamy bean salad that serves as the city's most beloved and distinctive culinary staple. Unlike the lighter versions found in other Turkish regions, this version uses a heavy tahini dressing that creates a rich, sauce-like consistency. The white beans are meticulously boiled and then mixed with a blend of vinegar, garlic, and olive oil before being finished with the tahini. It is almost always served topped with sliced hard-boiled eggs, fresh parsley, and onions to add texture and brightness. This dish is the essential partner to the city's grilled meats and is a mandatory order for any food-focused visitor.Best Şiş Kebap / Adana KebapIn pressAntalya's kebab culture is a robust reflection of its Anatolian roots, featuring a variety of skewered and grilled meats cooked over charcoal. The most iconic orders are the 'Adana Kebap,' a spicy hand-minced lamb mixture, and the 'Kuzu Şiş,' which consists of tender marinated lamb chunks. These are typically served with charred peppers, tomatoes, and a variety of flatbreads to soak up the juices. The city's grill houses are social hubs where the aroma of smoldering oak wood defines the evening atmosphere. For the best experience, look for restaurants with an 'Ocakbaşı,' where you can watch the master grillers at work.Best Tandır KebabıIn pressTandır Kebabı is a pinnacle of slow-cooked meat in the Anatolian tradition, requiring hours of patient preparation. In Antalya, the most authentic versions are 'Kuyu Tandır' (pit tandır), where lamb is suspended over glowing embers in an underground clay oven. The result is meat that is incredibly tender, falling off the bone with a subtle smoky aroma. It is typically served by weight on a simple bed of flatbread with nothing but fresh onions and salt to accompany it. This dish is a serious undertaking for any meat lover and represents a deep-rooted cultural pride in the city's inland heritage.Best Serpme BörekIn pressSerpme Börek is Antalya's spectacular and highly skilled contribution to the world of Turkish savory pastries. Its preparation is a true performance, as the baker 'throws' (serpme) and spins the dough until it becomes a massive, translucent sheet that is almost see-through. This paper-thin dough is then folded with a variety of fillings, most traditionally minced meat and onions or a salty cheese blend. It is baked until it reaches a level of crispness that is unmatched by other varieties of börek, resulting in a shatteringly delicate texture. In Antalya, this is a beloved breakfast and lunch tradition that is best enjoyed fresh from the oven with a glass of strong Turkish tea.Best KöfteIn pressKöfte in Antalya is almost always synonymous with 'Şiş Köfte,' grilled meatballs that are prepared on thin metal skewers. Unlike the round or oval meatballs found in other parts of Turkey, these are long and slender, designed to be cooked quickly over intense charcoal heat. They are traditionally made with a blend of lamb and beef, seasoned simply with salt and pepper to let the quality of the meat shine. The essential pairing for these meatballs is a bowl of tahini-heavy piyaz and a plate of charred peppers. To eat köfte in Antalya is to participate in a quick, protein-rich ritual that defines the city's lunch-hour energy.Best MezesIn pressMezes in Antalya are a vibrant collection of small plates that reflect the city's Mediterranean character and its rich spice heritage. The most iconic regional meze is 'Hibeş,' a thick and spicy tahini-based dip that is unique to the city. Other staples include fresh herb salads, walnut-based dips, and a variety of seafood-focused appetizers like grilled octopus or marinated shrimp. These small dishes are designed to be shared and are the essential starting point for any long evening meal, especially when paired with rakı. To eat a spread of meze in a courtyard in Kaleiçi is to experience the true leisure of Antalya's social dining.Best GözlemeIn pressGözleme is a beloved Turkish hand-rolled flatbread that is a staple of traditional Anatolian home cooking and street food. In Antalya, the best versions are cooked on a 'Saç' (a curved iron griddle) by master bakers who roll the dough to paper-thin perfection. These savory pastries are typically filled with ingredients like fresh spinach, salty feta cheese, spiced potatoes, or minced meat. They are folded and griddled until they achieve a perfect balance of crispy exterior and soft, flavorful interior. To eat fresh Gözleme in a garden setting or at a local market is to enjoy one of Turkey's most authentic and satisfying snacks.Best KünefeIn pressKünefe is a hot and indulgent Turkish dessert that is a triumph of textures and flavors. It consists of two layers of crispy, shredded wheat (kadayıf) filled with a special, unsalted melting cheese. The entire pastry is baked until golden and then soaked in a sweet syrup and topped with crushed pistachios. It is always served hot, ensuring that the cheese inside is molten and elastic, creating a satisfying contrast with the crunch of the wheat. To eat Künefe in Antalya is to participate in a rich and rewarding dessert tradition that is best enjoyed after a full savory meal.